How to Use a Hairpin in Thick Hair

By Aviva Jansen Perea, celebrity hairstylist and founder of Day Rate Beauty

Thick hair presents a specific challenge when it comes to pinning: the weight of the hair works against the hold. A pin that would anchor a bun comfortably in fine or medium hair may sit at the surface of a thick bun without ever reaching the structural point at the base where the hold actually comes from. An hour later, the style starts to slide, and the pin gets the blame.

The pin is usually not the problem. The length, the placement, and the technique are.

Here is what changes when there is a lot of hair to hold.

Why thick hair needs a different approach

Thick hair has two properties that make pinning more demanding. The first is density: there is simply more hair for the pin to pass through, which means a shorter pin runs out of length before it reaches the anchor point. The second is weight: a dense bun is heavy, and that weight creates downward pull on the style throughout the day. A pin that is not long enough, or not seated deeply enough, will work loose under that pull over time.

This is why people with thick hair often feel like no pin is ever strong enough. They are reaching for a pin built for a different amount of hair.

Choose the right pin first

For thick hair, pin length and gauge both matter.

Length, because the pin needs to pass all the way through the depth of the bun and catch hair near the scalp, not just thread through the outer layers. A pin that is too short seats itself in the middle of the bun rather than at the base. It feels secure and then slowly loses its grip as the day goes on.

Gauge, because a pin that is too fine will bend under the weight of a heavy bun. It needs to be strong enough to hold its shape and maintain its internal tension once it is placed.

The Power Pin is designed specifically for this. It is the longest and strongest pin in the Day Rate line, built to pass through a full, dense bun and anchor at the base without bending or slipping. Made in the United States from upcycled stainless steel with a smooth plant-based nylon coating, it passes through even dense hair without catching.

The technique for thick hair

The core technique is the same as for any hair type, with a few adjustments that matter more when there is a lot of hair involved.

Gather with real tension. The weight of thick hair means loosely gathered hair will sag before the pin even goes in. Hold the hair firmly as you form the bun and keep that tension through the coiling or folding. A bun with internal structure holds. A loosely piled bun of thick hair will overwhelm the pin regardless of its quality.

Aim for the base, not the surface. Direct the pin toward the base of the bun where it meets the scalp. In thick hair, there is a tendency to catch the outer layers because there are so many of them. The outer layers are not where the hold is. Keep the angle downward and push through until the pin is seated at the structural point of the bun.

Use the weave. Pass the pin through the bun, catch a small amount of hair near the scalp, and bring it back through. This is the step that locks the pin in place. In thick hair, skipping the weave is particularly costly because the weight of the bun will pull a non-woven pin out faster than it would in lighter hair.

Use two pins for large or heavy buns. For very thick or long hair, one pin placed well is a good start. Two pins placed at opposing angles through the base of the bun is more reliable. The opposing tension keeps both pins seated and distributes the weight of the bun across two anchor points rather than one.

A common mistake in thick hair

The most frequent error I see with thick hair is placing the pin at whatever point in the bun is easiest to reach, which is usually somewhere in the middle or upper section, rather than at the base. It feels like it's held. It looks held. But the base of the bun is still loose, and by the end of the day the whole style has shifted.

Take a moment before pinning to locate the base of the bun, where the coiled hair meets the scalp. That is where the pin needs to go. Everything else is just threading a pin through hair without actually anchoring the style.

Thick hair and texture

Unlike fine hair, thick hair usually does not need texturizing product to give a pin something to grip. The density of the hair does that on its own. What thick hair does benefit from is a moment of deliberate shaping before the pin goes in. Coil the bun firmly, give it a second to settle into its shape, and then pin. Rushing to pin a bun that hasn't settled yet means the hair is still shifting under the pin as it goes in, which affects how well it seats.

For guidance on choosing the right pin for thick hair specifically, Best Hairpins for Thick Hair covers the full breakdown of what to look for in length, gauge, and tension. If you want to compare the approach for fine hair, How to Use a Hairpin in Fine Hair covers the other end of the range.

The Complete Guide to Hairpins has everything in one place, including technique, hair type guidance, and how to choose between the pins. And if you're ready to find the right pin for your hair, browse the full line at dayratebeauty.com/collections/pins.

xo, Aviva