How to Use a French Hair Pin
By Aviva Jansen Perea
"French pin" is one of those terms people use with total confidence and then can't quite define when I ask them what they mean by it. Most of the time, what they're picturing is the pin used to secure a French twist: a longer hairpin that holds the roll of hair in place along the back of the head, rather than gathering hair into a single bun.
The good news is that if you already know how to use a hairpin, you already know most of what you need. The technique is the same. The placement is what changes.
What Makes a French Pin Different
A French twist doesn't have one central anchor point the way a bun does. Instead, the hair is rolled or folded vertically along the back of the head, which means the pin (or pins) need to run along that seam rather than crossing a single gathered base.
This is why length matters more here than in almost any other style. A short pin can secure a bun by reaching one anchor point. A French twist needs a pin long enough to catch the roll at multiple points along its length, or two pins working together to hold the seam from top to bottom.
How to Use a Hairpin for a French Twist
Smooth and gather your hair to one side, twisting it upward into the roll shape that defines a French twist. Hold the twist closed with one hand while you work.
Find the seam. This is the vertical line where the twist folds in on itself. It's the structural point of the entire style, and it's where every pin you place needs to cross.
Insert the first pin near the top of the twist, at a slight angle, weaving it through the seam and catching a small section of hair before bringing it back through. This is the same weave technique used in any hairpin placement: not a straight stab through the twist, but a motion that locks itself in.
Add a second pin lower down the seam, angled slightly differently from the first. Two pins placed at opposing angles along the seam hold a French twist far more securely than one pin trying to do the whole job.
Tuck any loose ends and check that both pins sit flat against the head, following the curve of the twist rather than sticking out from it.
Why the Weave Matters Even More Here
A French twist puts more ongoing tension on a pin than a simple bun does, because the whole roll is constantly working against the pins to unwind. If a pin isn't properly woven through the seam, catching hair near the scalp rather than sitting at the surface, it will lose the fight by midafternoon. This is the single most common reason French twists collapse: the pin looked secure when it went in, but it was never actually anchored.
The Right Pin for the Job
For a French twist, I reach for our Foundation Pins. They're built for exactly this kind of internal structural work, the pins that hold a style together from the inside rather than finishing it on the outside. Their length and tension are suited to running along a seam rather than crossing a single point, which is what a French twist actually needs.
If your hair is thick or long enough that the twist has real weight to it, our Power Pin gives you the extra length and strength to anchor a heavier roll without the pin bowing under the weight.
All of our pins are made from upcycled stainless steel with a smooth plant-based nylon coating, so there's nothing painted or plastic to snag on the twist as it goes in or comes back out at the end of the day.
Related Reading
To understand the shape this pin is actually built on, read French Pin vs U-Pin: What's the Difference? And for the full technique this post builds on, our Complete Guide to Hairpins covers placement, weaving, and tension for every style.
Shop Foundation Pins, the Power Pin, or browse the full hairpin collection.
xo, Aviva
